Colborne lane is the poster child for molecular gastronomy and
a fixture in the Toronto food scene. In its fifth year, it is Summerlicious’s
most anticipated addition. The logo looks like it comes out of a Halo game; it is
prominently etched on windows which define the entirety of the shop-front. Venturing
in, the room gets progressively darker as natural light is displaced by softer
tube-light lanterns that set a freakishly serene mood. Raw wood and Victoria-style
mirrors are an anachronism to the contemporary dinner to come. The cured salmon was a play on sashimi, with a
mouth-popping soy sauce snow so unexpectedly chilly as to bring the fish back
to its natural habitat. Crunchy tapioca balls offset the gooey salmon and the
wasabi paste completed the dish with an ending note of spicy. The striploin looked
like it slide down the plate amidst a garden of bitter watercress in contrast
to the sweet parsnip and garlic. And while the bitterness was hard to
counteract at times, the beef adored the smooth and sweet purée. And finally, a
dessert to rival the polenta cake at Aria. Three caramelized banana pillars
played host to a perfect mix of sweet and nutty flavours and a range of
textures and temperatures. Colborne lane brought exactly what it is known for
to summerlicious.
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