The winding road of Davenport that travels through Yorkville
and the Annex and then heads east to oblivion is a journey backwards through
time. Antiquated and oft-forgotten restaurants (including a personal favorite,
Le Paradis and summerlicious candidate, Corner House) temper the street to a
relic of old Toronto. Mistura with its white table cloths and terse waiters
share in that old-age luxury. Yet as the frivolous logo might suggest, this old
cat has some new tricks. First off, a watermelon salad, where thick pink-red
slices of sweet dance with crumbly feta and viscous balsamic. It is so
unexpectedly refreshing and flavourful, making a perfect summertime appetizer.
Unfortunately, it is downhill from there. The fatty lamb pined to find its equal
in the hidden caramelized glaze but was cut off by awkward shaves of undercooked
carrot and potatoes. The brownie took the charming shape of salami but lacked
the bitter aftertaste required to make it go full circle. Mistura is not
without its flaws but such inventiveness in a conservative setting justifies
the $45 price point.
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