Sunday, July 15, 2012

Summerlicious July 15: Auberge Du Pommier



Auberge feels terribly misplaced in the in the parking lots of Yonge Corporate Centre. The restaurant resembles an idyllic cottage untainted by the commercial outgrowth that surrounds it. And it isolates itself tastefully using trees (whether they are of the genus “Pommier,” I cannot say). Stone walls and elegantly light décor contribute to the ‘wedding-room’ look. Again, the multicultural spin of Summerlicious takes over, but waitresses are more than happy to indulge these aspirational patrons. And unfortunately some diners did stage a bit of revolt in front of mislabelled washroom doors - their confusion showing through otherwise austere faces, perturbed only by the urgency of their needs. “Mesdames” and “messieurs”: what alien tongue is that? The lunchtime selection is a little dull; the clear favourites were the sea bass and the cheese. With that said, the table all ordered different appetizers and they were all very good. My salad was very lightly dressed and almost bitter until the sweet pine nuts were introduced. The Sea Bass was perfectly cooked, as were the zucchinis. The saffron sauce (however little there was) offered a distinctively acidic punch to the unctuous fish. My complaint would be the watery cherry tomatoes and the chewy PEI mussels added nothing to the dish. The cheese was beautifully presented and rested on a cheery fruit spread. The added effort beyond a simple cheese & cracker dish (see Sassafraz) was duly noted. Auberge reminds me of many of ST Coleridge’s poems of the peaceful countryside, in the distant past. “How exquisite the scents / Snatch'd from yon bean-field!”

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