http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-20-starfish-oyster
This British pub-like oyster bar brings old-world charm into an oddly serene part of Toronto between the rich financial district and the miserable Regent Park. The transition is noticeable as drunkard McDonald munchers litter in a rather beautiful St James Park, where stands a venerable church of the same name. The atmosphere befits the oyster, the cheap lunchtime grub of the 19th century working class only to gain favour with rich inlanders who found it a slippery and tasty aphrodisiac. Unfortunately, that the seafood “tower” only held one oyster made the whole course a little stingy. And to characterize a martini glass as a “tower” is quite the exaggeration. It might have paid to have served two oysters on a plate (or perhaps four and charged $25 instead). The salmon fails the age-old imperative that requires an acid to cut through the fishy unctuousness that was forwarded by the all'onda (wavy) barley risotto. The chief complaint for the risotto, though, is again the missing flavour. The dark chocolate pâté was delectable with rich hazelnuts and subdued cherries to round out the flavour profile. Starfish merits a closer inspection after summerlicious, with a couple more oysters on the menu.
Friday, July 20, 2012
Summerlicious July 19: L'unita
http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-19-lunit
L’unità is the older and more experienced sister restaurant to Maléna; and where it lacks in furnishings it makes up in sophistication. Saggy armchairs make for a sub-optimal position to attack the impending feast. And while the portions weren’t particularly fearsome, the food is fit for royalty. I was a bit annoyed that the two sisters both began with crudo and followed with branzino, but the same ingredients were treated in surprisingly novel ways. The crudo was a differentiated take on smoked salmon – the smoked fish replaced with a fresh raw trout, the cream cheese with an uplifting yogurt and capers with peculiarly well-paired celery. The branzino rested on a smoky, bitter yet sweet eggplant purée, garnished by soft-flavoured vegetables for an cheery main. And finally, the yogurt returns in squeaky chunks to brighten the densely colourful blackberry and cake though the three parts sour overpowered the one part sweet from the nuts. Overall, L’unità is an exciting take on the traditional Italian trattoria with some never-before-tasted flavours to boot.
L’unità is the older and more experienced sister restaurant to Maléna; and where it lacks in furnishings it makes up in sophistication. Saggy armchairs make for a sub-optimal position to attack the impending feast. And while the portions weren’t particularly fearsome, the food is fit for royalty. I was a bit annoyed that the two sisters both began with crudo and followed with branzino, but the same ingredients were treated in surprisingly novel ways. The crudo was a differentiated take on smoked salmon – the smoked fish replaced with a fresh raw trout, the cream cheese with an uplifting yogurt and capers with peculiarly well-paired celery. The branzino rested on a smoky, bitter yet sweet eggplant purée, garnished by soft-flavoured vegetables for an cheery main. And finally, the yogurt returns in squeaky chunks to brighten the densely colourful blackberry and cake though the three parts sour overpowered the one part sweet from the nuts. Overall, L’unità is an exciting take on the traditional Italian trattoria with some never-before-tasted flavours to boot.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Summerlicious July 19: Tutti Matti
http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-19-tutti-matti
The story is well known by any Queen’s Commerce student. The IVEY School of Business case we were all forced to read is centred around the birth-child of a Tuscan-trained chef, Alida Solomon, struggling to survive in SARS-struck Toronto. In the case, an option is given to join Summerlicious, which had its inaugural year in 2003 as a response to the SARS epidemic. Ten years later, we see Tutti Matti as the second most popular participant of summerlicious according to Toronto Life. Unfortunately, the restaurant stands lonely as a castaway box in an alleyway waiting to be torn down. And the inside feels a little bare-boned and worn for Tuscany. The Carpaccio was too wet to hold much flavor. The fettuccini sat in a puddle of uninspiring tomato sauce, as boring as pasta usually is. The cake had no defining qualities and the dry sweetness made it hard to finish. It is a shame the Tutti Matti saga ends so unspectacularly.
The story is well known by any Queen’s Commerce student. The IVEY School of Business case we were all forced to read is centred around the birth-child of a Tuscan-trained chef, Alida Solomon, struggling to survive in SARS-struck Toronto. In the case, an option is given to join Summerlicious, which had its inaugural year in 2003 as a response to the SARS epidemic. Ten years later, we see Tutti Matti as the second most popular participant of summerlicious according to Toronto Life. Unfortunately, the restaurant stands lonely as a castaway box in an alleyway waiting to be torn down. And the inside feels a little bare-boned and worn for Tuscany. The Carpaccio was too wet to hold much flavor. The fettuccini sat in a puddle of uninspiring tomato sauce, as boring as pasta usually is. The cake had no defining qualities and the dry sweetness made it hard to finish. It is a shame the Tutti Matti saga ends so unspectacularly.
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Summerlicious July 18: Mistura
https://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-18-mistura
The winding road of Davenport that travels through Yorkville
and the Annex and then heads east to oblivion is a journey backwards through
time. Antiquated and oft-forgotten restaurants (including a personal favorite,
Le Paradis and summerlicious candidate, Corner House) temper the street to a
relic of old Toronto. Mistura with its white table cloths and terse waiters
share in that old-age luxury. Yet as the frivolous logo might suggest, this old
cat has some new tricks. First off, a watermelon salad, where thick pink-red
slices of sweet dance with crumbly feta and viscous balsamic. It is so
unexpectedly refreshing and flavourful, making a perfect summertime appetizer.
Unfortunately, it is downhill from there. The fatty lamb pined to find its equal
in the hidden caramelized glaze but was cut off by awkward shaves of undercooked
carrot and potatoes. The brownie took the charming shape of salami but lacked
the bitter aftertaste required to make it go full circle. Mistura is not
without its flaws but such inventiveness in a conservative setting justifies
the $45 price point.
Summerlicious July 18: Bymark
http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-18-bymark
In style, Bymark is the dark and plush antithesis of the bright and playful Canoe. The dim-lit dungeon laced in stone and wood create a subtly romantic escape from Bay Street. Shy and contentious waiters were too polite to abide by our order to overlap courses, in the interest of time. The dessert was almost delivered within twenty minutes of seating but well-trained busboys turned around hastily as not to disturb my enjoyment of my halibut. Despite this, Bymark still wins the quickest lunch contest at just over thirty minutes. And while the servers are shy, there is nothing timid about the food. Generously thick cuts of both the halibut and the striploin (which resembled tenderloin) jut out confidently in truly three dimensional dishes. And while the flavours are not too complicated, they are incredibly pleasing from the fruity sourness of the Ceviche with crunchy taro contrasting the chewy whitefish to the salty pancetta supporting a flaky halibut. The steak unfortunately reminded of the Keg exclusively because of the blue cheese dressing. A tangy berry jam cut through the combination of dark and white chocolate for a well balanced dessert. This restaurant is for patrons who have big appetites and who want big flavours. For a bit more complexity, go upstairs to Canoe.
In style, Bymark is the dark and plush antithesis of the bright and playful Canoe. The dim-lit dungeon laced in stone and wood create a subtly romantic escape from Bay Street. Shy and contentious waiters were too polite to abide by our order to overlap courses, in the interest of time. The dessert was almost delivered within twenty minutes of seating but well-trained busboys turned around hastily as not to disturb my enjoyment of my halibut. Despite this, Bymark still wins the quickest lunch contest at just over thirty minutes. And while the servers are shy, there is nothing timid about the food. Generously thick cuts of both the halibut and the striploin (which resembled tenderloin) jut out confidently in truly three dimensional dishes. And while the flavours are not too complicated, they are incredibly pleasing from the fruity sourness of the Ceviche with crunchy taro contrasting the chewy whitefish to the salty pancetta supporting a flaky halibut. The steak unfortunately reminded of the Keg exclusively because of the blue cheese dressing. A tangy berry jam cut through the combination of dark and white chocolate for a well balanced dessert. This restaurant is for patrons who have big appetites and who want big flavours. For a bit more complexity, go upstairs to Canoe.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Summerlicious July 17: Sorrel
http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-17-sorrel
Sorrel is a small and cosy restaurant on subterranean Yorkville
St. off the corner of Bellair. The menu is all too familiar: caprese or arugula
salad; salmon or steak. The buffalo mozzarella was fresh and the herbs were a
thoughtful addition but the thickly sliced and watery tomatoes diluted the
delicate cheese. The steak was a blushing pink but it was a bit bland with a
tangy bitterness. I have had much better
(but also much worse). The apple strudel
was flaky with a perfectly balance of sweet and sour but still resembled the average
strudel.
Summerlicious July 17: Aria
http://david-kong.squarespace.com/#july-17-aria
This aria is grandiose with 35 foot floor-to-ceiling windows and exquisitely ornamentedwith orb chandeliers in meandering dark-wood strips. A small carafe of olive oil adorns the white tables with a speck of sunny yellow. The ternary form begins with a vivace salad, anchored by a velvety anchovy mayonnaise and sprinkled with sweet, crispy potatoes that look almost like croutons but opens up a sweet, warm and chewy core. This motifcarries over to the grave second course, where real croutons appear as gargantuan playthings that crunch raucously between the steak and the salad. What a shame the chef in haste forgot to season the ribeye (we asked begrudging waitresses to get out by 1:00m but only left at 1:20pm). Or perhaps the chef was prescient as for the first time (in my dining experience), pungent olives served a purpose, salting the rib-eye on their own! And finally we return to a lively finish with the best dessert of Summerlicious, a dark chocolate “polenta” cake, slightly chilled, never sweet, rich and soft plays counterparty to a buttery-sweet hazelnut ice cream with melt-in-mouth toffee sprinkled atop. But most memorable is the coda, a beet curd coloured in Victoria Secret pink, a seductive melisma to round out the piece.
This aria is grandiose with 35 foot floor-to-ceiling windows and exquisitely ornamentedwith orb chandeliers in meandering dark-wood strips. A small carafe of olive oil adorns the white tables with a speck of sunny yellow. The ternary form begins with a vivace salad, anchored by a velvety anchovy mayonnaise and sprinkled with sweet, crispy potatoes that look almost like croutons but opens up a sweet, warm and chewy core. This motifcarries over to the grave second course, where real croutons appear as gargantuan playthings that crunch raucously between the steak and the salad. What a shame the chef in haste forgot to season the ribeye (we asked begrudging waitresses to get out by 1:00m but only left at 1:20pm). Or perhaps the chef was prescient as for the first time (in my dining experience), pungent olives served a purpose, salting the rib-eye on their own! And finally we return to a lively finish with the best dessert of Summerlicious, a dark chocolate “polenta” cake, slightly chilled, never sweet, rich and soft plays counterparty to a buttery-sweet hazelnut ice cream with melt-in-mouth toffee sprinkled atop. But most memorable is the coda, a beet curd coloured in Victoria Secret pink, a seductive melisma to round out the piece.
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